The Altberg Bootmakers of Richmond, Yorkshire have produced custom made boots and made-to-measure boots, at their Richmond bootmaking factory since 1989. there is often some confusion about how military bootmakers and walking boot makers differentiate between custom made boots and made to measure boots. Altberg would classify them as follows:-

a) Custom made boots:- This is where the bootmakers work with a standard last or model during bootmaking. Once the military boot or walking boot has been made then alteration takes place at a custom boot fitting. The bootmakers do this using specialist bootmaking machinery and steam. The custom made boots made by the Altberg bootmakers are made on a selection of five different width fittings - this means that the amount of alteration needed on the custom made boots is within the bootmakers alteration criteria and means that custom boot fitting can be successfully carried out so that the boots become custom made boots.
Another feature of custom made boots - compared to made to measure boots is that the upper can be adapted during production to incorporate different sponges or linings so that the upper becomes unique to the customer and hence the term custom made boot.

b) Made to measure boots:- This is where the bootmaker builds a last on which the key dimensions match measurements taken from the customers feet. The made to measure boot will match the customers foot around the joint and the instep as well as in length and volume. It should be noted that the relationship between the foot and the made to measure boot is adapted using a system called mondopoint.
Mondopoint builds in allowances when building the last to make the made to measure boot, for example the foot will elongate when weighted. The last for the made to measure boot will normally be 0.6mm longer at the toe end and 0.4mm longer at the heel - depending on the design of the made to measure boot. Other dimensions are similarly adapted - although the bootmaker will often use his experience when taking measurements for made to measure boots to "fine tune" the requirements. Made to measure boots and made to measure footwear is "by no means" an exact science. Altberg have been producing made to measure boots and made to measure shoes for many years. The work is done by the two most experienced bootmakers and the bootmaker oversees the total process. It is he who will personally take the dimensions for the made to measure boots and decide on any specific changes needed to the upper. The same bootmaker will then actually build the last and often hand-cut the upper, most made to measure footwear requires a non-standard shaped upper. Once the bootmaker has made the made to measure boot or made to measure shoe then the customer will attend the factory a second time for a custom boot fitting.

It is at a custom boot fitting that the made to measure boots and custom made boots come back together again. Even though the made to measure boot or made to measure shoe has been made on an individual last - the bootmaker will have built in allowances so that he will "fine tune" at fitting using steam and either a specialist machine or just a "rubbing bar".

Once the customer has the custom made footwear on their feet they will be asked to step onto a sloping ramp and foot movement inside the made to measure boots will be assessed and pressure points will be noted. Fine tuning or first fitting then takes place.

Made to measure military boots and made to measurewalking boots all follow this process, as do custom made military boots and custom made walking boots. The same bootmaker is involved in the complete process right through to custom boot fitting.

Ocassionally a second custom boot fitting can be required - once the made to measure boots are being used other pressure points "come to light" - another trip to the bootmaking factory can be required and the same bootmaker will again look at the necessary alteration to the custom made boots or custom made shoes - he may at this stage involve another senior bootmaker to also assess the custom boot fitting.

Altberg have offered their custom made boot service and made to measure footwear service to walking shops and military boot users for many years. Many of the best walking shops refer customers requiring made to measure boots to Altberg. Also many military units use Altbergs' unique custom made military boot service.

If you decide to use the Altberg made to measure boot service or take advantage of their custom made footwear facility then you will need to make an appointment. The two senior bootmakers work in the boot factory and see only a small number of customers each day. Made to measure boots are not cheap - expect the bootmakers to charge in the region of £600 (2006) for a pair of made to measure boots and £300 for a pair of custom made boots. This is still less expensive than the London bespoke bootmakers but Altberg are a walking boot factory and the majority of their output is standard fitting walking boots, military boots and motorcycle boots. If Altberg were to switch to being a 100% custom made footwear or made to measure footwear factory then prices would of necessity rise to similar levels as the London bespoke bootmakers. An Altberg bespoke bootmaker can expect to spend up to fifteen hours on one pair of made to measure boots! and up to seven hours on a pair of custom made boots.

One catagory of made to measure boots that we've not yet covered is custom made motorcycle boots. The Altberg bespoke bootmakers have long offered a made to measure motorcycle boot service. There are two main areas where motorcycle boots require the more specialist services of a bespoke bootmaker:-
a) Made to measure boots to accommodate a high instep or very wide, high volume foot. Motorcycle boots do not normally lace onto the foot. Most motorcycle boots are made to "pull on". If a person has a high instep or a high volume foot then it can be difficult to pull the motorcycle boot onto the foot, i.e. around the corner of the instep. Altberg bootmakers will increase the volume of the custom made motorcycle boot in this area of the last to allow the foot to go into the motorcycle boot.
b) Custom made motorcycle boots are often required for motorcyclists with very wide or very narrow calves. A motorcycle boot, unlike military boots, police boots or walking boots must fit around the calf as well as the foot. A bespoke bootmaker will take measurements and "hand cut" the calf to the appropriate dimensions. Custom made boots made this way will allow the motorcycle boot to sit comfortably around the leg and limit ingress of moisture during rain.

Altberg is not an orthopedic footwear manufacturer - the custom made boots and bespoke footwear that it produces is normally done for people who do not have medical or foot problems which require orthopedic footwear. People who require bespoke footwear, or custom made boots are normally people who have very wide feet or very narrow feet or joints enlarged. Bespoke footwear is also required for people who have different sizes of feet. Normally if there is a difference of one whole size between the left and the right foot - bespoke footwear or made to measure boots will be beneficial.

If you require custom made motorcycle boots, walking boots, military boots or police boots contact Altberg and make an appointment to see one of their bespoke bootmakers at their boot factory in Richmond, Yorkshire.